We showed two Belgian friends, both gallery curators, some of the artistic and architectural jewels of the region today. One of these, a bit off the beaten track, is the church of Santi Eusebio and Vittore and its extraordinary wall paintings. The church stands on a rocky outcrop high above Como lake. There are two curious geographical connections. The first is Palermo. As the local population grew it became clear that the land could not provide food for all and so, between the 16th and 18th centuries (echoes of the Mani!), many families headed towards Sicily, especially to Palermo, where they prospered but maintained their Peglio links, sending money and precious objects back up north. The second is Flanders. In particular, the church walls were decorated by one Giovanni Mauro della Rovere (1575-1640), of distant Flemish origin. On either side of the altar at Peglio he painted two massive illustrations of the last judgement and of the inferno (with plenty of Bosch-like details). As one of our guests pointed out, artists were constrained by a number of conventions in depicting heaven, but there were no holds barred when it came to depicting hell and the ‘Fiammenghino’ really let his imagination run riot to great effect, as the detail shows.