Beer has made something of a resurgence in the US, but not the chemical stuff that’s sold in huge kegs. Microbreweries are on the rise everywhere, producing small-batch beers with distinctive tastes. This evening we ate at the Wynkoop, which describes itself as Denver’s first ever brewpub. The idea is simple: serve good, wholesome food and good beer to go with it (have a look at what’s currently on tap). And it works. The Wynkoop is clearly a very popular place with a high turnover. In fact, if I am being honest, and leaving the issue of quantities to one side (and forgetting about Amtrak restaurant cars), we have not yet eaten badly once in the US; on the contrary, we have eaten rather well. As to why the food should have been good at the Wynkoop, it’s easy to understand once you read their philosophy. I’ll stop giving them free publicity now, but if ever you’re in Denver you could do worse than give them a try. They’re at the end of 16th Street, opposite the Union Station and – a nice coincidence – the Tattered Cover.