Over an agreeable lunch I learned more about the Lorraine region. In particular, Raymond Bayer explained to me how the region has maintained the special status of established religions. Thus, the two forms of Protestantism (Lutherism and Calvinism), Judaism and the Catholic church all benefit from state support and their priests, pastors and rabbis are paid by the state –  they are assimilated to the status of state officials. Natives of Lorrain benefit from special religious holidays but can also be punished for blasphemy. And they have maintained a Bismarckian system of social security. Fascinating! Europe in all its cultural richness and diversity. Afterwards, I just had time to visit the cathedral of St Etienne and admire its extraordinarily high nave and the stained glass windows by, among others, Chagall. There was one more place I wanted to visit; St Pierre aux Nonnains. The building began life (in the fourth century AD) as a Roman gymnasium but was later converted to church use and it is here, apocryphally, at least, that Gregorian chant was first developed. Normally, the building, which is now used for occasional events, is closed. My luck was in; some technicians had opened the door and tolerated my presence. I imagined the Benedictine monks working out how to write down their new sound but all too soon had to dash for the station and my train back to Brussels.